The NES board is made in such a way that each button has one contact to earth and the 2nd contact is for signal.
Thats a total of 8 buttons and 16 contacts. Using soldering wick, you will need to remove the IC, 2 resisters and the cable to make working on the board easier.īoard with removed IC, cable and resisters.Įach button on the board has two contacts. We will be cutting this down later on to make it as small as possible.
If you are opening up a keyboard from scratch, then it may be easier for you to just identify the keys you want to use and trace the tracks and test using a multimeter. It takes long doing it this way but I had no choice as I didnt have the actual keyboard with me to trace the tracks I needed. I tested the keyboard controller out by plugging it into my computer and manually shorting the board contacts to see what output it would give me on notepad.exe and writing it down. Some USB cables have an additional 5th wire for ground or shield, you can safely ignore this if your controller has one. +5V (usually red), ground (usually black), Data+ and Data- (green and white). The wire coming off the bottom of the board is just a standard USB cable. This way I could easily identify which two contacts would give me what output keypress. I made a grid (the sheet at the top) with the X axis A to M and the Y axis 1 - 13. So if you want to emulate a keypress you need the correct combination of a contact from the left (if you have a look at the sheet of paper, you can see these are labelled A to M) and right (labelled 1 - 13 on the paper). A keypress shorts the circuit between one of the contracts on the left of the hole in the middle and another contact on the right of the hole. The long rectangular contacts on the board are the keypress contacts (for when you press a button on the keyboard). Further cutting down is needed now to fit it into the NES controller cavity. This one I took out of an older model SNES controller I had made many years ago, so its been cut down from its original size. The board between the clamps is a keyboard controller. The USB HUB (which is the only device with a USB plug on it), a USB thumb drive (2GB in this case) and a USB keyboard controller (which controls the button presses on the controller). There are 3 USB devices inside the controller. If you find this Howto useful please leave some feedback! Thanks!ĮDIT: Ive added this dodgy diagram. If any of this tutotial is unclear comment on this and ill try and fix it up. Sorry, im not too good with video editing just yet. Next NES controller I make will need to be wireless, if someone does this before I do please email me at jaykaye2k9 (at] gmail [dot) com I recently made 3 more controller, each a little different from the other. Ok guys, ive gotten waaaaaaaaay too many requests to make a tutorial on this to ignore. If youre interested in purchasing one email me at jaykaye2k9 (at] gmail [dot) com Ill be looking into making a small batch of these soon and selling them on eBay. ive been getting bombarded with requests to make and sell these little suckers. I should hopefully have 10 of these to sell on ebay in about 1 - 2 weeks. Hello again!! I was able to get my hands on 10 NES controllers and have ordered in the parts to fit inside them. Please post your questions in the new forum and hopefully either myself or someone else will answer your question(s). So please, lets all share these ideas on the forum!!!įor those of you who have emails me and I havent replied. I really like the idea of DIY and so far this blog has brought about plenty of ideas that enhance the USB NES Controller or make it easier/cheaper to build. Because of this, ive decided to make an online forum so we can all help eachother build these things. Looks like people are still posting here and im getting inundated with emails asking for help with their controllers etc. Well ive been very busy for the past year and have neglected this blog (and my NES controllers!).
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